f1s and carp underwater feeding


I have noticed that recently there has been a couple of videos put up on youtube about how F1s and carp feed so i have decided to put a few words down about it and i hope that you find them as beneficial to your fishing as i did .

Video one 

When you begin feeding your peg either with a catty or through a kinder pot you start to attract the fish which are already in your swim this activity soon grabs the attention of any passing carp , the more feed that you put in makes the carp more competitive and they tend to pick up a mouth full of pellets before leaving the swim to digest them . F1s on the other hand are a lot more delicate turning up right to pick up a solitary pellet and virtually don’t move while they digest the bait , it is noticeable that when the initial feed of bait has been eaten the fish soon disappear looking for their next meal .

Video two 

The fish get attracted into your peg at different times during your feeding cycle , when you first drop in your feed you get the odd inquisitive fish that’s already in your swim feeding before the carp+f1s start competing for the increasing amount of pellets but as soon as these greedy fish have demolished the bait they soon disappear looking for their next meal and this is when the shyer species turn up Tench-Crucians-Skimmers get in on the action ,these pick up any odd pellet that has been left plus any particles of crushed feed .

So if you begin getting bothered by the small species of fish when you have caught f1s+carp then you need to start re-feeding to draw them back into your peg or a better option would be to continue feeding so the bigger fish stay attracted to your swim .

Video three

When you begin loose feeding the F1s will dart about trying to grab the falling feed which is probably why when fishing shallow you can get them competing hard and they tend to hook themselves by pulling the elastic out but when feeding on the deck they move very slowly and precise in picking up the odd pellet while , hardly moving they turn up right to digest the food and this movement would barely register on the float unless you had a shot close to the hook , this could explain why when you move your rig to begin lift-dropping there is a fish already on the end of it .

F1s will usually watch the loose feed pellets fall through the water and either pick them up as they drop or when they have been on the deck for a few seconds , if the bait has been on the bottom for over a minute the F1s will tend to ignore it waiting for the next batch of pellets to fall through the water . This is why little and often feeding works so well for F1s and i also think that a falling bait catches their attention a lot more encouraging them to grab at the dropping pellet .

Video four

Loose feeding maggots is a great way of getting the fish competing shallow , large handfuls of bait draws them into your peg where they often start grubbing around on the bottom before they work up through the layers till they get to the source of the feed . When you have them feeding shallow you can begin to cut the amount of feed going in and this will help increase your catch rate because the fewer loose offerings the greater the chance of a fish picking up your hook bait but there’s a fine line between feeding , too little and the fish will drift out of your peg and too much will push them back to the bottom so you will be waiting longer for bites .

Video five

When using a normal method feeder the fish instantly attack the feeder knocking the ground-bait from the method , the carp then take a mouth full of the lake bed before turning up right to help them distinguish between what is feed and what is lake bed . It’s surprising how many times the fish pick up the hook bait without actually moving the feeder which shows the importance of having a very short hook length when you are fishing the method .

Video six

When you are using a cage feeder particles of ground-bait get washed out of it as it falls through the water ,when it reaches the bottom the fish attack the feeder knocking all the ground-bait out of it . I think that a longer hook length will allow your hook bait to fall naturally through the water among the particles being released from your dropping feeder , this allows you to catch fish on the drop and as the cage feeder doesn’t give you a tight area of feed like the method so a longer hook length wouldn’t be a hinderance to attracting a bite .

Video seven

When cupping in a ball of feed as it falls a few particles come off it which attracts the fish from the upper layers towards the bottom , they then attack the ball as it reaches the deck creating large clouds of bait and therefore creating a bigger area to draw the fish into . As usual on heavy stocked commercials it only takes one carp to start nosing at the ball before it triggers the other fish into competing for the food and when you lower your rig over the top of the feeding fish they are that confident or pre-occupied that they will take the bait as it falls if they see it drop , but strangely even though they are competing hard a static bait fails to attract a bite so working your rig will usually get you an indication instantly so it just goes to show how important movement of your rig is and why maggots , worms with their natural wriggle will often get you more bites .

From watching these short videos it has given me an insight on how Carp-F1s feed and what interests me most is ;

1, by keeping a constant rain of feed going in will first attract the fish before keeping them competing in your swim , but as soon as you’re feeding stops they will disappear looking for their next meal .

2, F1s are really delicate feeders when fishing on the deck they just pick up single pellets and hardly move while they eat it , so your rig needs to be spot on for you to see the bites from them with either a short hook length or shot being close to your hook being beneficial .

 

 

 

 

 

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paste fishing


1. Swim stim ground bait – Add almost boiling water to a bowl and then sprinkle on the ground bait, keep adding until it is very sloppy and then leave for 10 minutes, the mix will stiffen when it begins to cool. This is a great paste used on the pole very soft, it breaks down within a couple of minutes to leave a small pile of feed.
Great for carp, bream and tench fished over pellets. If you want to add flavours add it to the water before adding the ground-bait.

This type of paste works with all the swim stim and crazy bait ranges of ground-bait and I have done it with silly bait but tend to sieve it first as it has some bigger particles.

2. Pellet Paste
Method one – Get yourself a coffee grinder ( mine was 14 quid from amazon) Put a handful of pellets in the grinder and grind until a very fine powder, keep doing this until you have a bag full and then mix with water just off boiling as you would with the swim stim. I have found that dependant on the oil content of the pellets you sometimes get a very sticky mix, add a drop of ground bait if needed to make it a little easier to use, again if you want to add flavours add to the water first.
Method two – get a bowl of pellets, cover with boiling water and leave for an hour, only just cover the pellets with water or will be too mushy. After the hour just kneed the mush with your hands to make the paste. This method I have found best when a fishery states you must use their pellets, this is what the fish are fed so using a paste made of the same makes sense.

This is how I make all my paste and the tips I can give are : Fish it as soft as you can get away with, obviously you need to make it stiffer to fish with rod and line. I personally don’t add eggs, this makes the paste too binding for the way I fish it, I want it to break down in a couple of minutes, however it may be better for rod and line fishing. The other thing about eggs is that they go off in hot weather.
Water just off the boil is better than cold, it emulsifies the oils in the paste giving off more attractants, Roy Marlow agrees with this and he knows more about carp feeding than most.
Flavours that have worked well for me have included, Strawberry and scopex crazy bait double squirts, Vanilla essence nicked from the missus food cupboard and csl and mollases. Dont be afraid to experiment with different flavours.

Paste floats .

In the margins less than 18″ deep I use a loaded PI Tyson float. This is a self-cocking dibber type float, which is very short and visible. I plumb to find a clear flat spot on the bottom and fish it slightly over depth (1/2″). I don’t strike at all when fishing paste but lift about 4 inches to set the hook but only when the float has completely disappeared.
In water between 18″ and 4′ deep I use PI Durafloat 7’s in between 4 x14 and 4 x 18 sizes dependent on the depth and tow. I slightly undershot the float by about a no. 10 shot, which just leaves about 2mm of the body showing. I then take a lot of time to plumb up and find an area about 12″ square that has a flat bottom, I know it states in the mags that you need to be completely accurate with your placements but no-one can guarantee landing on the same inch perfect spot. Right, I plumb so that the float is absolutely at dead depth allowing then an additional 1/2″ inch of line as the piece of paste can pull the line a little further down and if set dead depth the float disappears.
In water deeper than this I use a maver paste float which has a very long bristle in sizes between 1/2 g and 1.5g, don’t be afraid to use a heavy float as paste is a heavy bait and the fish don’t tend to feel the resistance. If conditions are good I shot this with an olivette locked with a shot, the weight of which takes the float only to the bottom of the bristle. I fish it with the olivette at least 2ft from the hook. I again plumb the same allowing 1/2 inch for the paste ball. Don’t be afraid to have an inch of bristle showing. With both this and the dura float I only strike when the float sails away, lifts sharply or disappears, if getting a lot of liners and knocks I often count to one after the float goes before lifting into the bite, get much less foul hookers this way.
If the weather is bad or the water is towing strongly add a no.10 shot and fish the paste 2″ over depth, again only lift into bites that are solid as I said above.
I always use a pot on the top kit to put my paste in as it is very soft and tip it in, I make mine by drilling out dove deodorant tops, they are just the right size for me but the fox toss pots are also good. I never fish smaller than a size 12 hook as paste is a big bait and will even go up to a size 8 drennan star point for big fish.
I try and fish as short a line between pole and float as possible, 6″ in good conditions and up to 2′ if windy, I ship out with the paste in the pot, tip the paste in and then ship back the distance between pot and pole tip so that the float is directly over the paste. If fishing with a float over 1 gram i lift the float out of the water as soon as I tip the paste in and slowly lower it so that the shot/olivette doesn’t pull the hook out of the paste.

I tend to only feed a pot of pellets at the start along with 3 or 4 pieces of paste, your paste is constantly feeding you swim as you keep re-baiting. I only top up the pellets when I stop getting bites or liners. I have found that if i feed a few pellets each cast it can lead to fish coming up in the water which causes no end of bother.

As I said at the start I am no expert but at least this may help you get started on the paste, be prepared to miss a lot of bites but when you do master it a great days fishing you will have.

taken from a piece on maggot drowner’s .